Update...

Just to let you know that tomorrow we're starting a 2 month tour of Africa where we will be mostly camping and have limited internet access... We're obviously already quite behind on our posts (too busy travelling!) but will try to catch up (and keep you updated on this part of our trip) when we can!

Selcuk (Turkey)

After Gallipoli we headed down the coast to Selcuk, which we used as a base for visiting nearby Ephesus (see next post). Here we saw the ruins of the Basilica of St John, which was a huge church on the hill where John the Baptist is believed to have written his gospel and is now buried; the one remaining pillar of the Temple of Artemis, which was once one of the seven wonders of the Ancient World (it used to have 127 columns and was larger than the Parthenon in Athens!); and the museum which houses a collection of artifacts found at Ephesus (we found one which was particularly entertaining!). We also dropped by the bustling Saturday market where the locals do their fruit and vege shopping for the week.

On our last morning we spent a few hours visiting Sirince, a cute little village in the hills about 30 mins away from Selcuk and surrounded by orchards. We enjoyed wandering the narrow streets, sampling the local fruit wines and checking out the little shops and stalls around the town. 

Basilica of St John:

Temple of Artemis:

 Well-endowed...

Saturday market:

Sirince:

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Gallipoli (Turkey)

After Istanbul we headed to the Gallipoli peninsula where we spent an afternoon touring the WWI battlefields. It was an insightful tour (made up, unsurprisingly, of mostly Aussies and Kiwis!) with an excellent and very knowledgable Australian-Turkish guide.

Given the beautiful surroundings of Gallipoli it was hard to imagine the tragic loss of life that took place here - around 44,000 ANZAC troops and over 80,000 Turkish troops were killed here during the war. It was moving to wander about the headstones - most soldiers were very young (one boy was only 14 years old).

The battles at Gallipoli are considered by many to be the last true "gentleman's war" and it was interesting to learn some of the stories of bravery and fair play that took place. The spirit and respect between the two sides is characterised by a quote on the monument at Anzac Cove which repeats Ataturk's famous words: (Ataturk was the commander who led the Turkish to victory at Gallipoli and later became their President)

"Those heroes that shed their blood and lost their lives...you are now lying in the soil of a friendly country, therefore rest in peace. There is no difference between the Johnnies and the Mehmets to us where they lie side by side here in this country of ours. You, the mothers, who sent your sons from faraway countries, wipe away your tears. Your sons are now lying in our bosom and are in peace. After losing their lives in this land they have become our sons as well."

Trenches:

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Istanbul (Turkey)

Our first stop in Turkey was Istanbul, a unique city which is split into an Asian and European side by the Bosphorous strait. There is everything on offer here - loads of history yet also very modern, beautiful architecture, friendly locals, fantastic museums, great shopping, delicious food, and a vibrant nightlife. 

There's so much to see and do but we only had 3 days. Here's some of our highlights:

- The beautiful Aya Sofya, built nearly 1500 years ago (in 537!) and with a fascinating history - it was the grandest church of its time before being converted into a mosque when the city fell to the Ottomans in 1453, and today is considered a musuem. Inside are many amazing mosaics, some with only fragments remaining after they were covered over when the church was converted into a mosque.

- Testing our negotiation skills at the Grand Bazaar, the huge maze of tiny streets and alleys with over 4000 shops selling everything you could imagine.

- Indulging in the Turkish food, particularly the Turkish Delight, Baklava and Donor Kebabs!

- The impressive Blue Mosque whose interior is lined with tens of thousands of blue tiles.

- Al fresco dining at a meyhane (tavern) along busy Nevizade Sokak where we joined the locals in sampling meze platters and drinking Raki.

- Exploring the massive Topkapi Palace where Ottoman sultans lived until the 19th century. The palace is huge, with 4 large courtyards and a series of imperial buildings (including sleeping quarters, kitchens, pavilions, chambers, and barracks) built around the courtyards. A highlight was visiting the harem where the sultan and his family lived along with up to 300 concubines and eunuch servants!

- Taking a night cruise on the Bosphorous over to the Asian side for dinner.

- Joining the crowds along bustling Istiklal Caddesi on the more modern side of the city, and then afterwards enjoying amazing views over a beer at the 360 bar.

We loved our time here and easily could've spent another week enjoying this awesome city!

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