Sunday, May 29, 2011

The Inca Trail to Machu Picchu (Peru)

Over Easter weekend we completed the Inca Trail (a 4 day/3 night trek to Machu Picchu). Our guide Roger and his assistant guide Robinson led a group of 16 of us (ranging in age from 19 - 65, and from 6 different countries) over the 48km trail. Also part of our group were a team of 20 porters - these men from local communities carried all of our equipment (tents, food, sleeping bags, clothes - we only carried small daypacks) from campsite to campsite, being the first to reach each site (and set up our tents etc) and the last to leave after packing up. Many only wore sandals on their feet and the sight of them rushing ahead of us to the next campsite while carrying a large 25kg bag was quite amazing!

Overall, it was an unforgettable experience (do it if you ever get the chance to!), and well worth all the sweat, aching muscles, and lack of sleep!

Day One: Feeling fresh, excited and full of anticipation we enjoyed a mostly flat day of walking, passing the occasional small house and food stall dotted along the way (no surprise to see the locals cashing in on one of the most popular treks in the world!). Around midday we were treated to a 3 course lunch in a small tent set up by the river (courtesy of our porters of course!) and then enjoyed an hour long siesta afterwards! The last hour of the day´s trek was uphill to our campsite, which was situated in a lush green valley. On arrival to our campsite we met our porters and cooks and enjoyed an afternoon tea of popcorn and coca tea, followed later by a 3 course dinner before heading to bed early (in anticipation of an early start the next morning!)


Day 1: Feeling good!

Our GAP group, nicknamed the "pumas"

The start


Amazing porters with all our gear!


Lunch break (3 courses!)


Accommodation

Day Two: We woke at 5.30am to a porter greeting us outside our tent with coffee and coca tea in hand! After breakfast we set out for the day around 6.30am. Day 2 is generally regarded as the hardest day as it involves a 3-4 hour climb (from 3000m to 4200m) to the top of Dead Woman's Pass. It was a tough climb, but the awesome views and regular breaks helped make it bearable. The summit was bitterly cold so after a quick break we began the descent. The rest of the day´s trek was all downhill, which actually can be tougher than uphill when there's large inca steps involved! We reached camp at around 2pm, and enjoyed a well-deserved lunch and relaxing afternoon and evening.

Day 2: 6.30am start - and another beautiful day


Taking a break on the relentless climb to the top of Dead Woman's Pass

At the (very cold) summit of Dead Woman's Pass



Beginning the downhill trek to camp (and lunch!)


Day Three: Another 5.30am wakeup call with coffee! This day was by far the longest, and we woke to heavy cloud and threatening rain. We set out again at 6.30am with a steep climb to the ruins at Runkuraqay. In cold, driving rain we continued to the 2nd highest pass of the hike half an hour away, which unfortunately provided no views because of the low cloud! After this we had a relatively flat path through the cloud forest towards our lunch spot. It continued to rain after lunch, though the whole afternoon was spent descending thousands of slippery steps so we did eventually leave the cloud above us. We reached camp around 4pm for our last evening of the trek and another early night, ready for Machu Picchu tomorrow!

Day 3: 6.30am start - thick cloud and threatening rain




End of Day 3 and our last night


Dinner preparations underway

Day Four: After waking at 4am and having a quick breakfast we rushed to get to the queue for the park entrance. We had to wait in line as you aren't allowed on the trail until around 5.30am when it starts to become light. We then began the last 6km of the Inca Trail. This was flat and fairly easy, with some awesome mountain views. After about an hour of walking there were around 50 (incredibly steep!) steps to ascend to reach the Sun Gate, where at the top we were presented with breathtaking views across to Machu Picchu. We enjoyed a break here as we watched the sun slowly creep up over Machu Picchu then walked the last 20 or so minutes to the ancient city where we took the 'postcard picture' with our group and explored the ruins. We couldn't help but feel a sense of oneupmanship over the crowds of people who took the easy option and were arriving by bus, although they looked and smelt alot better than we did!

Later that day we caught a bus down to Aguas Calientes, the small town at the bottom of the hill, then a train to Ollayantambo, and then finally a minibus back to Cuzco. We have never appreciated a hot shower and a soft mattress more than we did that night!

Day 4: After a 4am wakeup we reach the Sun Gate

First glimpse of Machu Picchu, and totally worth the 3 days walking!


Tired, dirty but excited



Reaping our reward - enjoying the majestic city views below us

With our guide Roger




Big thanks to our awesome guides Roger and Robinson who got 16 of us there safely!



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Saturday, May 14, 2011

Cuzco & The Sacred Valley (Peru)

After Arequipa we caught an overnight bus to Cuzco, America´s oldest continuously inhabited city and the former capital of the Inca empire. It´s well known today as the gateway to the Inca Trail/Machu Picchu for most travellers.

We had a low key couple of days here before starting the Inca Trail. During this time we saw the amazing cathedral located in the main plaza (which took nearly 100 years to build!) and visited the interesting Inca museum. 

We spent a day seeing the Sacred Valley on our way to the starting point for the Inca Trail. We visited a tiny community called Ccaccaccollo which GAP Adventures (the operator we did the Inca Trail with) supports through the development of a women´s weaving project and by hiring some of the men as porters on the Inca Trail. While here we learned how they dye wool and fabrics different colours by using various plant leaves or seeds - Nick´s hand was a model for showing how this works! (see photo below) 

We also saw the impressive Inca cities of Pisac and Ollantaytambo which are situated on hillsides and include agricultural terraces and buildings made from huge blocks of stone. We spent the night in Ollantaytambo before starting the Inca Trail the next morning.




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